Dioskurov embankment, Sukhumi, Abkhazia: description, photo, where it is on the map, how to get there. Sukhumi embankment Park along the embankment

Embankment of Mahadzhirov: Brekhalovka and Narta

From sad to happy.

Embankment of Mahadzhirs is one of the most popular gathering places for the local population at any time of the year and in any weather.

There are a large number of restaurants and bars here. Here the girls of Sukhum organize a fashion show every evening, and the guys come in their luxury cars and

By the way, about Brechalovka. If you were on the Sukhum embankment and did not drink coffee here, then you were not in Sukhum. Lyokha and Khachik (as it is more common to call them) have been brewing coffee here on sand, which is called, for many years, day after day. At half past seven in the morning, while I am having my tenth dream, they are already standing at their workplace and delighting residents with the smell of freshly brewed coffee.

For those who visit this place very often, we have come up with an interesting idea. The “chosen ones” are invited to bring their own cup there, in which they will serve coffee, so as not to drink from disposable utensils every time. Not everyone deserves this, as I was told. But, let me boast, I have already been offered to have my own cup. My cup will appear there soon, but you’ll find out what it will look like later.

And just recently, Lavrov himself drank coffee at Brekhalovka when he flew to Sukhum on a working visit. Next to the place where the coffee is brewed there are tables where a huge number of men always gather playing various board games: cards, dominoes and others. All the pressing problems of this country are discussed at these tables.

After Brekhalovka, according to tradition, we set off. This is Patskha, where national dishes are prepared. This is where the most delicious boats in Abkhazia (or, in our opinion, khachapuri in Adjara) are found. They are simply magical here! I don’t know what they add there, but my conscience won’t allow me not to finish eating. Don't be surprised when you see the word "Anasha" on the menu. This is not at all what you think. It's just a cucumber.

Everything else is prepared there at the highest level. But I warn you right away: do not expect service like in the best restaurants in Russia. No! You will not have the most shiny plates, a long wait for the table to be cleared, and a lot of all sorts of not very pleasant little things, but... these are all little things and you shouldn’t pay attention to them. We are for positivity!

Mahadzhirov Embankment: attractions

At the very beginning of the Makhadzhirov Embankment you can see the beautiful building of the Administration of the President and the People's Assembly of Abkhazia. The territory of the building is guarded, entry to outsiders is prohibited.

There is also a colonnade next to the Brekhalovka cafe. It is not as famous as the colonnade in Gagra, but no less attractive. Here you will always find a large concentration of Abkhaz artists selling their works and being creative.

In addition, on the Makhadzhirov embankment there are three famous Sukhumi hotels: the Abkhazia Hotel, the Oriental Hotel and the Ritsa Hotel.

The Abkhazia Hotel has long been the calling card of the capital. It was built in 1935, but, unfortunately, was badly damaged in a fire that occurred in 1985. At the moment the building has not been restored.

Adjacent to the Abkhazia Hotel on the left is the Oriental Hotel, which was built at the beginning of the twentieth century, in 1908, and was the property of the Georgian merchants Gvalia and Chavchanidze. In 1932 it was renamed the Tkvarcheli Hotel. Unlike the Abkhazia Hotel, this hotel has been restored and renovated. there is another oldest hotel, Ritsa, built in 1914. Initially it was called San Remo. It was burned down during hostilities, but has been completely restored and functions as a top-class hotel with a beautiful view of the sea.

Book a room at the Ritsa hotel.

Between the Abkhazia Hotel and the Nartaa Restaurant there is another historical building, which was designed by the architect Anisimov for the merchant Tsiripov in 1901. At the moment, this mansion houses a hotel and restaurant called “White Sail”.

Let's move on. On Mahadzhirov embankment you will notice sculptures of a boy with a chicken, a girl with a gramophone, an old man and a penguin writing. All these sculptures are the work of the talented sculptor Arkhip Labakhua. Each of the sculptures is a character from the books of Fazil Iskander, the great Abkhaz writer and poet. These sculptures fit so perfectly into the mood of this city and give the embankment even more comfort and warmth. Read more about the work of Arkhip Labakhua.

By the way, you can walk along the Makhadzhirov embankment in company.

Mahadzhirov Embankment on the map

The Mahadzhirov Embankment originates from the intersection of Zvanba and Chitanava streets and ends with a smooth transition to the Dioscuri Embankment. The length of the embankment is 1250 meters.

Housing near the Makhadzhirov embankment

There are several hotels and guest houses near the Mahadzhirov embankment. Prices here, of course, are above average - but there are many restaurants nearby, a promenade area and a beautiful view of Sukhumi Bay.

One of the disadvantages is the remoteness of the beaches - there is no place suitable for swimming near the Makhadzhirov embankment. The nearest city beach is located on the Dioskouri promenade.

Sukhumi embankment combines two embankments: Dioskurov and Mahadzhirov.

The Sukhumi embankment was built mainly in the late 19th - early 20th centuries, after the Russian-Turkish war.

The original houses have been preserved here: the building of the Abkhaz Shipping Company (1903) and the building of the former Rossiya Hotel (1898) with arched windows and magnificent cornices, the house of the Xandopulo brothers, the Abkhazia Hotel (1935), the Oriental Hotel (1908 year), the Ritsa Hotel (1914), the Grand Hotel and the Aloisi Theater, the State Drama Theater named after Samson Chanba (1951).

Sukhumi embankment is the main place of recreation and entertainment for the citizens and guests of Sukhum.

Dioskouri Embankment

The Dioscuri embankment stretches along the Black Sea coast from the western side of the city and to the pier of the seaport. The embankment is named after Dioscuria, a ruined fortress, the remains of which are still preserved. On the left side of the embankment there is a park, and on the right there is a city beach.

Embankment of Mahadzhirs

The Makhadzhirov embankment in Sukhum stretches from the seaport and ends at the confluence of the Basly River and the Black Sea. Named in honor of the Mukhadzhirstvo - the resettlement of ethnic Abkhazians to Turkey. The old buildings of Sukhum are located here, but there is no beach - the sea here is washed by a concrete pier.

Colonnade on the embankment

The colonnade on the Sukhumi embankment of Makhadzhirov was built in 1948 according to the architect’s design Y. O. Kvaratskhelia in the Stalinist Empire style. The colonnade consists of two halves installed on common pedestals. The two parts form an arch for the passage to the embankment, and the colonnade is crowned by two small domes. This building is one of the hallmarks of Sukhum.

The Dioscuri embankment is a long road that smoothly turns into the Mahadzhirov embankment. There is actually no clear boundary or difference between them, because both are paved with stonework and decorated with beautiful columns, each of them offers a magnificent view of the sea.

Walking along the embankment, you can not only admire the sea, but also look at the architecture of the city, because on the other side there are old, colorful houses that are more than 100 years old. Also here you can see the old Ferris wheel, which is very rusty and has not been in operation for a long time. A wonderful decoration of the embankment is a beautiful park with original coniferous plants and palm trees, whose presence here creates a magnificent atmosphere. The street got its name from the ancient city of Dioscurias, which was destroyed more than 2000 years ago.

On warm summer evenings there is no better and more romantic place in Sukhum than on the illuminated Dioscuri embankment.

Embankment of Mahadzhirs

The Embankment of the Mahajirs (ethnic Abkhazians who were forcibly evicted by the tsarist government to the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century) is a seaside embankment, one of the most picturesque places in the city.

The embankment was built at the beginning of the twentieth century. The oldest buildings on the embankment are the buildings of the shipping company and the former Rossiya Hotel. Sergei Yesenin was here in 1925.

You should start your journey from this embankment, which tells visitors in more detail about the history of the city. It is not surprising that there are many hotels, restaurants and cafes on the embankment, distinguished by the fantasies of their former owners. White-stone houses, interesting balconies and verandas, mansions made of Venetian brick together create the original appearance of the Sukhumi embankment.

In May 2010, a monument to the poet Bagrat Shinkuba was erected on the embankment.

This is a railway station built in 1951. After the 1992-1993 war, traffic through the Sukhum station was completely stopped. Five years ago, restoration work was carried out by Russian forces. The railway is back in operation, but the old station is not operational.

Minibuses from Gagra, Pitsunda and New Athos stop here. And here it is, the first impression.

Near the station there is the skeleton of a former bus station

Bullet holes

Bright mosaic and abandoned building with gaping window openings

And this used to be a balcony

It looks like an office building. The inside has been cleaned and is apparently being prepared for restoration.

This is the building from the outside

UPD: from here it became known that this is the burned building of the former Government House. The grandiose building was built in the 1960s and was burned down during the fighting during the liberation of Sukhum at the end of September 1993.

This house is located on a street that leads towards the market and the sea. That is, from Eshba Street to the right.

How similar it is to Abkhazia, they have raked their corner, but at least the grass doesn’t grow around...

The center of the universe:) all minibuses go there, all landmarks point to it, life revolves around the market!

Doesn't remind you of anything?))

And here it is, the sea!

Dioscuri embankment. There is also the Makhadzhirov embankment, more on that later.

Beach. The impression somehow does not contribute to relaxation and rest.
Although I don’t argue that after a few days your gaze becomes somewhat blurred and you no longer notice much.

Inoperative Ferris wheel. Reminds me Pripyat.
For some reason, the thought immediately occurred to me that someday it would completely rust and collapse...

These are the fruits that fell from the tree. I wonder what it's called?

A few photos from the Dioskouri embankment

The remains of Soviet soldiers - defenders of the Caucasus from fascist invaders in the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945 - are buried here. Bow to their memory! - written on the pedestal.

Sukhumi Beach

From the next entry we will continue along the Dioskouri embankment and turn to the Mahadzhirov embankment

If you still remember, on October 1 we decided to escape from Pitsunda to Sukhum, fearing the bad weather that had arrived there and the adventure stagnation that threatened our trip, independent of the weather :) We must admit that the decision was strategically correct: the adventure stagnation ended for us immediately after leaving the yard of our house in Pitsunda. With the weather, everything turned out to be a little more complicated...

Of course, we didn’t wake up the owners and give them the keys to the rooms at 6 o’clock in the morning, and even after yesterday’s Victory Day: for this, in principle, you can get in the heat of the moment and get punched in the face :) Having written them a note with thanks, we We quickly and quietly had breakfast, packed our backpacks and slipped away to catch the bus. Luckily, there was no rain, but there were still clouds in the sky. We settled down next to the pavilion on the square where the bus was supposed to depart from and began to wait for it. Besides us, another strange couple was waiting for the bus, a young man of about twenty-five and an aunt of about fifty. The taxi drivers were unable to lure us in: we firmly decided to wait for the bus... People gradually gathered, and at some point a certain woman appeared among those waiting and told those gathered that the bus from Sukhum was supposed to arrive yesterday and bring someone from her relatives. But he didn’t come and didn’t deliver, because the driver got drunk about Victory Day until he was swine and couldn’t go on the route (an excellent example of the severity of the Abkhaz business!). Her relative arrived on the carriage. The Sukhumi bus did not arrive at 7-30, or at 7-45, or at 8 o’clock in the morning, we became worried, and the taxi drivers became noticeably more active. At some point, one of the waiting groups could not stand it and drove off towards the highway in order to catch some passing transport there. We accepted our difficult fate and decided to follow their example. The guy and his aunt, who turned out to be his mother, also joined us...

We stood on the highway for about ten minutes, no more, when a large minibus arrived and took us and everyone else to Sukhum. On the way, we got into conversation with our fellow travelers and even exchanged local phone numbers with them. Firstly, the guy and his mother also turned out to be from St. Petersburg. And secondly, they definitely had bad karma and a simply enchanting ability to attract troubles to themselves, which almost spread to us... Let me explain my thought:) They lived in Pitsunda in some half-abandoned dirty apartment with cockroaches, but for the same money as us. Exactly last night, when a guy went to take out the trash to a nearby dumpster and forgot to take his passport with him (!), he was caught at the entrance by a drunk Abkhaz cop. Mom had to buy him from the cop for a modest three hundred rubles (versus a night in prison and a five hundred ruble fine), and this was the last straw for them. Why the hell did they, after such events, rush deep into the country, to completely non-tourist Sukhum, and not to some Adler, away from the Country of the Soul of Apsny, history is silent. But it was on the day of their departure from Pitsunda that the only direct Sukhumi bus did not arrive. We were on this bus, as you guessed, and were planning to go...

The bullshit in the life of this couple continued in Sukhum, but here we also fell under this bullshit of theirs. The minibus dropped us off near the central market, and we went to look for accommodation. For some reason, we suddenly decided to look for shared housing for six, and no more than 250 rubles per person... There was only one woman near the market who offered us an apartment somewhere very far from the sea, behind the railway, and we immediately refused. In search of an apartment or room, we zigzagged through half the city: there was not a single place where three double rooms would be rented at the same time. At the same time, it would be possible to find housing for four, 300-350 rubles each, very quickly, but for some reason we stubbornly wanted to move in together. As a result, another wrong decision was made: my mother and I sat down in a public garden with all our clothes, and everyone else went lightly to look for housing in another part of the city. Only an hour and a half later the guys returned. During this time, my mother fucked out the last remnants of my brain with stories of her family up to the fifth generation and the stories of her and her son’s week-long misadventures in Pitsunda. I found temporary shelter in a dirty and smelly (but at the same time paid, always remember the peculiarities of the Abkhaz business!) toilet on the edge of the park: there I spent about ten minutes, sniffing chlorine fumes and enjoying the silence... Brought by the guys on their tail, a young Abkhazian on what In a creepy show-off car he took us to a three-room apartment in a high-rise building not far from the railway, gave us one key for six of us and drove off somewhere, promising to return in an hour with a gas cylinder and another key.

But then hell began, which we only later associated with the karmic influence of our would-be fellow travelers. Living in an apartment was basically impossible. There was no water in the taps, none at all. There was no water in the toilet, with all the consequences, pardon the pun. The refrigerator could not be turned on because the wire did not reach the socket. Furniture fell apart from a light touch. There was electricity, however... Looking at all this, I was horrified, and, taking Max with me, I ran to look for housing on my own. Meanwhile, it was already about two o'clock in the afternoon, we were all hungry and angry. Max and I spent about forty minutes searching and found a couple more places with normal water and electricity, where four of us could easily fit in. It was decided to invite the people to split up, but the situation resolved itself. I entered the apartment with a loud cry: “Well, damn it, where is this pretzel with a key and a cylinder?!?” Pretzel, who did not bring either a gas cylinder or an additional key, but at the same time wanted to get money for the entire next week, ended up in the next room. He came out into the corridor with a very dissatisfied mug, as you might guess =) Right into this dissatisfied mug, I expressed everything that I thought about him and his apartment: get, pretzel, money in one day and bring a second key and a gas cylinder in the evening , turn on the water, turn on the refrigerator - and then we’ll think about staying in this shithole of yours until the end of the week. For some reason, Krendel did not agree to such a generous offer, and began to demand money for the whole week in advance, but was refused rudely and immediately became offended. “Well, great! Then we’ll leave!” I said, and we really left, cursing loudly and slamming the door.

For some reason, our fellow travelers didn’t follow us, and at that moment we were finally freed from their bad influence :))) We didn’t even have time to get to the nearest normal point where four of us could live! Literally at the nearest intersection, a dead “kopek” stopped in front of us, a grandfather with a southern, but not Abkhazian appearance leaned out of it, and affectionately asked if we were looking for housing =))) We, of course, were still looking for housing, and the grandfather, having shoved us all into the car with our backpacks, he took us to his house not far from the market. Outside the gates there was a half-empty two-story mini-hotel for 25-30 people, with constant hot and cold water, two civilian toilets and two showers, with a huge kitchen under a canopy, with a working gas stove. The rooms (modest and clean, for the same 250 per person!) suited us completely. In the yard there were figs and grapes, bananas were blooming and the owner's dogs were walking. In short, the place was considered ideal, and we finally checked in, happily paying the hostess for the six remaining days. Who needs coordinates - ask! There is an address and telephone numbers; you can (in summer you even need to!) make arrangements in advance. In terms of conditions, this is really one of the best places in the private sector where I have lived. Consider this an advertisement =)

Having rested slightly and come to our senses, one of us suddenly remembered about our fellow losers. Vovka and I even ran back to the apartment, but they had already disappeared from there. As it turned out two days later, after we left, they paid the pretzel for ten whole days, and the next day he even deigned to bring them a cylinder. Water was supplied to that apartment only for a few hours a day, and for the rest of the day it had to be stored in buckets, the toilet worked only with the help of a bucket, and so on... Moreover, confirming their reputation, they both had something We were seriously injured literally the next day after our arrival. Curtain!.. I’m still glad that we found the strength to part with them in time! =)))

After our grandfather (Yuri Mikhailovich) finally drove off to do his business, from which he was distracted by our appearance, the hostess (Valentina Sergeevna) fed us stewed beans, gave us tea with fig jam and started talking. From the conversations we gleaned a lot of useful information - about the owners themselves and their small business, about the central market, from which we then ate all week, and about the city, which turned out to be a rather inhospitable place... VS turned out to be from somewhere in Tver, YM turned out to be a Greek in his eighties, dreaming of getting rid of his Abkhazian real estate and leaving for his historical homeland. It also turned out that YuM takes excursions around Abkhazia in his second car, much more civilized than the “kopek” we met. This made us incredibly happy, but I’ll tell you about the excursion with YuM next time, it turned out to be too specific a thing;) In addition to the owners, we met an elderly couple from Rostov-on-Don and their grandson, who lived with the same owners. We couldn’t even really get to know the rest of our tourist neighbors, who disappeared, then appeared, then disappeared again: they turned out to be somewhat unsociable, they didn’t even say hello in the morning :(

Closer to four o'clock in the afternoon, we crawled out of the house and went to the beach, which turned out to be seven hundred meters away. The beach in Sukhum is stone and deserted, and on October 1 there was almost no one on it. After yesterday's rain, the water turned out to be a little colder, but we still took a swim somewhere near the monument to the Caucasian liberation soldiers on the Dioskouri embankment :) We were smoked off the beach by a huge black cloud hanging over the city, and we had to return home. The cloud poured down with heavy rain, under which we managed to get wet through and through in literally twenty seconds =) After the rain, we walked through fresh puddles to the city center, and even climbed into the abandoned building of the Council of Ministers, where we waited out another burst of rain. Having made a detour to the Mahadzhirov embankment and admiring the double rainbow over the sea there, we returned home, had dinner, washed ourselves in warm water, and went to bed...

If you think that the next day we set out to explore the city in detail, interspersing it with swimming, then you are very mistaken! Late in the evening of October 1, it started to rain again. Yes, not just rain, but a real (sub)tropical downpour, which poured for a little over a day, without stopping for a minute. Along with the rain came the cold: instead of the usual +23...+25, the temperature dropped to +10...+12 degrees, and thus became equal to St. Petersburg. We spent the entire day of October 2 at home, leaving the room only to use the toilet and the kitchen. But, I must admit, we slept well and had a good rest after a difficult move and yesterday's search for housing... The storm drain in the yard at some point stopped coping with the flow of water, and the entire yard floated up. We had to make a path from concrete slabs to our rooms, and the depth of the puddle reached no less than seven centimeters. In the city, the situation was no better - the storm drainage system couldn't cope, rivers flowed along the roads, there were lakes at the intersections, and all the people hid in their homes and didn't stick their heads out. Alyonka and I saw all this when we went into the city to explore in the afternoon. The senseless reconnaissance ended with our shoes and clothes soaking wet, and our two frozen carcasses :(

Okay, enough of the lyrics. First, look at the Dioscuri embankment, where we swam, and at the photographs of the Sukhumi downpour, under which we, in principle, also swam in some way :) Here are photographs of different days, so don’t be surprised by the blue sky in them!

A cloud is coming!..

We are patient and naive, still swimming, and don’t care about the future at all. But in vain!

Dioscuri embankment. Oleanders bloom here and rare October tourists stroll around.

Hotel "Tbilisi" - ruins overlooking the sea.

And here comes the rain =)

Rainbow over the city.

Rainbow over the sea.

Monument to Soviet soldiers - Heroes of the Defense of the Caucasus.

Reserve "Sukhumi Fortress". Remains of the ancient citadel of the Roman city of Sebastopolis (end of the 1st - end of the 3rd century AD).

Some foundations have been excavated here, but everything has already been overgrown.

Alyonka on the ruins of the cafe "Dioscuria".

There is little left of the cafe. Kamenyuki below are walls from the Roman period, blown up and thrown into the sea in 1956 during the construction of the embankment. Ridiculous, right?

A piece of a ship was sunk not far from the shore.

Another piece of the ship.

The third piece of the ship.

There are also living boats in the sea.

Fishermen on the breakwater.

Some cunning molluscs. Well disguised, right? ;)